[2026-03-26 Thu 11:09] Surfing log #1

Putting ultra learning into practice while surfing this morning, with a couple of goals. I will record my surfing session as below, so I can decide on what to work next.

Location: Noosa Condition: small 1 to 2 feet. Goal: Working on my paddling posture (no twisting, relax body, sweet spot) and gaze while surfing. Score: 3/10 Comments: Paddling: not bad as I lasted almost two hours. I focus on my posture and not burning too much energy. I noticed a lot of parasite movements; twisting my body, moving my legs. Halfway through the session I found a good drill: having my feet touching each other at all times. I forced me to remain on the center line, relax my legs and avoid parasite movements. I will be my area of focus next time. Surfing: not great, I did not position myself well (too close to the peak) which ended up in many wipe outs. I will need to work on my reading. Halfway through I decide to go for quantity over quality and move inside the break. This is what I should focus on. My gaze was terrible, even forcing it up, it still tends to dive. I found a good drill which was to look at the horizon, to landmark such as the surf club and actually notice it. My next drill, once my gaze gets better, will be to look over my shoulder: once I’m in, I never look back. Forcing myself to look back will help me dissociate the gaze from the body, and learn to twist my upper body instead of being rigid.

I also noticed that there are three distincts area I can do drills on: paddling, surfing and wave reading.

Next drills:

• Paddling: feet touching at all times during paddling, relaxed.
• Surfing: look at a landmark on the horizon. Once confortable, twist upper body to look over shoulder.
• Wave reading: pick a wave early and commit. This will help me catch more waves as the “obvious” ones are often taken by the good surfer on the break.